A Brief History of the Technique
This information was excerpted from: Needlework School; A comprehensive guide to decorative embroidery by The Embroiderers’ Guild Practical Study Group, New Burlington Books
Smocking evolved as gathering held in place by rows of stitches worked over pleats in a regular, even pattern. Stitches were traditionally worked on linen with linen thread of the same color. This technique was used on landworkers’ smocks to shape the sleeves and to control fullness on the body of the garment while allowing stretch across the back and chest.
Four simple stitches- stem or rope, cable or basket, vandyke, and chevron - were used in combinations to form a wealth of diamond, rope, and wave patterns. Honeycomb and featherstitches were added later.
Pleats are even folds, usually having rigid sharp edges. They can be set and secured in many different ways. Using a variety of stitches arranges the pleats into different groupings and directions. Spacing at varying intervals and varying the proportions create decorative bands and units of pattern. The fretwork of unstitched pleats is equally important to the elasticity, tonal effects, texture and pattern of the smocked piece.
The complexity of the embroidered designs peaked in the middle of the nineteenth century, and included boxes of complementary patterns worked in single, double, treble featherstitch and eyelet holes, stem and chain stitches. These were worked for decorative effect and to strengthen garment areas most subject to wear. Pleated and embroidered epaulets over the shoulder also gave extra protection from rain and the rub of yokes.
Versions of the landworker’s smock and smocking are found throughout the world. They vary in decorative detail and function.
Over the years, there have been several revivals of interest in the traditional smock – most notably by the followers of William Morris. More recently, fashion designers have made effective innovations in smocking by combining different fabrics, methods, and styles and by using colored fabrics and threads. Smocking is often seen in children’s fashions.
The sample made by June Hiatt is for a child’s garment. Ms. Hiatt combined the stem stitch and the surface honeycomb on a background of houndstooth checked cotton. It was then embellished with a decorative daisy stitch.